Traveling to Guatemala? Vegan? No problem!

I travelled around Guatemala for five weeks and almost never had an issue finding vegan food. I found many vegan and vegan-friendly restaurants and even stayed with a host family for a week who made me homecooked vegan meals. When shopping for fresh, raw ingredients at the local markets, I had an abundance of fruit, vegetables, grains, nuts, seeds and in some cases, even tofu.

Driving through the country I passed countless banana, avocado and papaya trees. Watermelon and pineapple grow by the truck load, and cacao, coffee and nuts never seem to be in low supply.

Guatemala has delicious and delightful food. It merges Maya culture with Spanish traditions resulting in flavourful, interesting and tasty chow! With its eternal spring climate, food grows happily and in abundance. Some parts of Guate, like Antigua and Atitlan are known for their coffee and cacao while the region of Quetzaltenango grows pretty much all the potatoes for the country and for the world. Driving through the countryside, there are hundreds of vendors selling bananas, pineapples, citrus fruits, avocados, plantains, tomatoes and melons.

Basically, if you’re vegan and traveling though Guatemala for a few weeks or for a few months, you won’t go hungry.

Just to note however that street food, like tacos or tostadas, can sometimes be an issue because the veggies are often cooked on the same grill as the meat, so cross-contamination can occur.

how to ask for no animal products in your food 101

My Spanish isn’t very good but I managed to ask whether there was any animal product in my food when needed.

To say “Is there milk, cheese, eggs or meat in this dish?” you would say: “¿Hay leche, queso (pronounced keh-so), huevos (pronounced weh-vohs) o carne en este plato?”

Alternatively, you could say “No leche, queso, huevos o carne, por favor”.

This means “No milk, cheese, eggs or meat, please”.

Antigua

Where I stayed: Yellow House Hostel and Maya Papaya

My first stop in Guatemala was Antigua. I flew in from Guatemala City and took a shuttle to the popular, quaint and picturesque town which has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Antigua used to be the political, economic and religious centre of Guatemala and Central America, but after it was destroyed by a series of earthquakes the city was abandoned, resulting in Guatemala City to be appointed the capital city.

Today it is one of Guate’s top tourist hot spots. You can visit old convents and monasteries that are still in ruins, wander the cobbled streets, visit cultural and art museums and purchase bright textiles. The town is surrounded by three famous volcanos: Acatenango, Fuego, Pacaya and Agua. If you have the time, I highly recommend doing the Acatenango overnight volcano hike to see the volcanos and Fuego and Pacaya spewing lava at night. I organised this tour through Yellow House Hotel; it was a highlight of my stay!

In terms of food, there is no shortage of restaurants and street food, and there is a huge local market buzzing with locals who are going about their shopping. I came across three vegan restaurants, namely Samsara, Once Once (pronounced “ooon-seh ooon-seh”) and La Bruja.

And if you like coffee, this is the place to be! The mountain basin that surrounds Antigua produces some of the best highland coffee and even the most simple black cuppa is rich, dark and brew-tiful (pun intended, sorry not sorry).

Right, enough with the vegan waffling, on to the recommended restaurants! PS: there is a café that serves vegan waffles ;) Let me know if you find it!

Samsara

Can I just get this restaurant to move to South Africa? This was my favourite place to eat in the whole of Guatemala - and there is a second branch at Lake Atitlan in San Marcos. Their hot drinks felt like nurturing hugs; I loved their Golden Milk and Amaranth Atole (smashed amaranth atole, cinnamon, cacao and roasted amaranth on top). The food is made with so much love and is packed with glowing colour, texture and nourishing ingredients. I enjoyed their Kale, Tofu and Chickpea Salad, Hummus with Pita Bread, the Samsara Platter (quinoa croquettes, hummus, green salsa, baba ghanoush, kale and tofu), the Tempeh and Peanut Bowl, Tempeh Tacos, the Wok (I had this twice!), Kimchi Bowl and best of all, their Quinoa Shawarma (quinoa balls, hummus and veggies wrapped in a double tortilla with curry sauce).

Can you tell I ate there often?

Fridas

This place is a lively, trendy Mexican-style restaurant with bright décor. I had their Veggies Tacos and asked them to leave out the cheese. It was light, tasty and made for a good lunch after climbing the popular lookout point, Cerro de la Cruz.

La Bruja

Hidden away in the most gorgeous garden, La Bruja has vegan burgers and a big selection of juices and smoothies. It’s a great spot to relax and take a few breaths before continuing on with the travel quest. In the same courtyard there are a few other restaurants including a Mediterranean place that serves top notch falafels.

Once Once

Pronounced “ooon-seh ooon-seh”, this little café is super sweet. When I went to visit, they had a sign promoting Veganuary which I thought was pretty darn cool! I had their Summer Rice Paper Rolls which were light and fresh. People rave about their Cauliflower Tacos which I will have to try next time I am in the town!

Amanecer Juice Bar

This restaurant caught my eye for their huge juices, smoothies and adorable decor. I had a big green juice which fuelled me up just right. Their food menu looked pretty decent too including vegan breakfast and lunch options. There is something for everyone. Yay!

El Mercado

The local market is filled with fresh veg and fruit produce, grains, legumes, nuts, ready-to-eat tortillas and anything else you could imagine. There are a number of little restaurants too in the market area should you want to eat where the locals frequent.

Street Food

On the side of the road and in and around the plazas are a variety of street food options. You will find fresh mango with chili sprinkles, corn cooked on the fire, tacos and tostadas. And if you need a snack on the run, there are people missioning around with wheelbarrows filled with different nuts or fruit.

Lake Atitlan

Where I stayed: Hostel Del Lago, Posada del Bosque Encantado (Enchanted Forest) and Gaia Dance Temple

I got lost in the vortex of Lake Atitlan. I spent one half of my time in San Marcos, the spiritual hub of Guatemaya, that is teeming with cacao elixirs, ecstatic dance, kirtan, yoga, astrology, bofu, contact improv, coconuts, mushrooms, reiki, hypnosis, tantra, quantum leaping and all the rest of it. It’s like Burning Man around a big lake. The other half was spent at an ecstatic dance and yoga festival in Tzunana. Suffice to say, while the lake may not be typical Guatemala, I got my fair share of vegan food, some of it locally inspired and some of it not so much.

Circles Café and Bakery

This was the first place I went to when I arrived. You may smell the café before you see it because they have their own bakery where they make fresh breads, rolls and croissants (not vegan) everyday. They have good, strong coffee, fresh sandwiches and delicious smoothie bowls. My favourite is their cacao smoothie bowl. This is also a great place to sit comfortably and get some work done.

Shambhala

Craving some grounding Indian food? Shambala has you covered. I ate there twice and enjoyed a nourishing bowl of rice and dhal as well as a plate of toast with different toppings (think mushrooms, avocado, pesto etc). The setting in this restaurant is really peaceful, private and tranquil.

Posada del Bosque Encantado (Enchanted Forest)

The quality of chocolate by the lake is muchos exceptional. A lot of the cacao from Guatemala is grown in this region so if you find yourself at the lake, organise to do a cacao farm tour, drink it (as it is traditionally consumed) or bite into a bar.

At the Enchanted Forest, you can buy raw cacao and chocolate mushrooms made right there on site by a Mayan women’s collective. The brand is Ixcacao and is available in San Marcos and around Guatemala. I had a cacao drink which sent me flying for the whole day. It is indeed proper medicine.

Emporium

K so I’m a bit obessed with this place, mainly for their epic low-key, humble, playful vibes and for their incredible warm elixirs. Just try them all -seriously - and of course their sweet vegan tarts, made with plantains, panela, cacao, tahini and other interesting local ingredients. I know they also serve lunch and dinner but I never tried their savoury offerings, but I can only assume they are delicious based on how good their sweet treats are. 10/10 recommend.

Malcoa

This spot is great for Israeli food and for sweet on-the-ground-mattress seating vibes. They have live music and movie nights too with themed dinners. We went for an anime film and vegan Japanese food.

Konojel

The Konojel Community Centre offers traditional vegan and vegetarian meals at great prices. Food is hearty and represents typical food from Central America. The centre provides meals to the most at-risk individuals in San Marcos as well as various education initiatives.

Il Giardino

You would never expect such an incredible space from the outside, but Il Giardino has one of the most beautiful seating settings in San Marcos. I ate there twice - once after a Tuesday night drum circle at Hostel Del Lago and another time after a powerful full moon kirtan and cacao ceremony. Definitely go for the Beet Hamburger, Rice and Veggies in Peanut Satay Sauce and Sizzling Tofu. They also sell cacao and make great coffee too.

Salud Para Vida (San Pedro)

Some of the great things about San Marcos are the many locally-made products including kombucha and sauerkraut from Love Probiotics, ginger beer, coconut yoghurt, nut butters and much more. But across the lake in San Pedro is Salud Para Vida, a fully vegan restaurant and health store. They have a bulk, package-free store where you can buy spices, nuts, seeds, flours, and lots of items you can’t find anywhere else. Their restaurant is off the charts too. They have vegan chicken mayo sandwiches, dope nachos (a must try!) and big salads. I had their Kale Caesar Salad which filled me up proper.

Café de la Granja + Granja Tz’ikin (Tzunana)

Neighouring San Marcos is the town of Tzunana. It’s quieter over on that side but definitely up and coming now that Gaia Dance Temple is located there and The Fungi Academy is making waves. If you’re there, you can have lunch at Café de la Granja + Granja Tz’ikin, a vegetarian café and permaculture farm. They have their usual menu items and then will have a special of the day. They are accommodating will make anything vegan if you ask.

Xela

Quetzaltenango (aka Xela) is the second biggest city in Guatemala and is where I decided to learn Spanish at PLQ and live with a host family. It’s one of the coldest cities in the country, has a high altitude and has relatively poor air quality. Not to matter though - the people are friendly, there’s a thriving student nightlife and there are volcanic hot springs nearby. Having done literally no Spanish classes except for a few hot minutes on Duolingo, and living with a family who spoke no English, this was one of my most challenging weeks. I did manage to eat good food though.

My Host Family

They accommodated me with homecooked vegan food three times a day. For breakfast, I was given fruit and granola, sugary oats with banana and tostadas with refried beans. Lunch and dinner usually comprised of a soup, tortillas, refried beans, empanadas*, plantains, pupusas*, rice with some sauce or an occasional dessert like banana bread.

* Empanadas - You’ll find these everywhere in Guatemala and can spot them as crispy pastries. They are mostly vegan or vegetarian in Guatemala filled with potato and/or spinach, while in Central America they may have a meat filling. They are covered with a variety of toppings such as guacamole, tomatoes, onion and cilantro.

* Pupusas - These are thick corn tortillas stuffed with a variety of fillings – usually refried beans (vegan), cheese (vegetarian) and/or pork (meat) – and then fried until the surface is crisp while the inside stays soft and squishy. A pupusa traditionally comes with a helping of salsa and cabbage to keep it fresh.

Sabor de la India

Possibly the best Indian food I’ve ever eaten I ate at Sabor de la India. There is a huge selection of vegan items and they have the most delicious naan-tortilla thing. Just order whatever tickles your fancy. You won’t be disappointed.

Tan Lechuga Yo

I’m so glad I was shown this café by a friend from Spanish school. Just when I was wanting some more greens in my life amongst the rice and beans. While I was loving the home cooked meals that my host family had been making for me, I was missing a few things. I was craving something greener, fresher and juicier, so there were a few times where I chose to skip having lunch at my host fam and went out to see what Xela had to offer. Tan Lechuga Yo brought the food and smoothie freshness, quirky art decoration and youthful spirit I was looking for. I opted for a rice salad with greens, mushrooms, avo, peanuts, cabbage, carrots, peppers, beetroot and a yummy sauce, served with tostadas on the side. Their smoothies and smoothie bowls are great too as are their special trail fruit and nut mixes.

The Final Stop

I took a nine-hour bus ride, armed with lots of fruit and nuts, to Flores (with an overnight stay in Antigua; guess where I went for dinner that night… Samsara, obviously!). Once in Flores, I stayed in the magical Ciao Cacao Hostel for a few nights. This hostel has a hippy jungle outdoor space with vegan smoothies and treats. They do such a great job at managing the space and I highly recommend staying there if you’re looking for a chilled and comfortable space.

Following my stay, I embarked on a five-day jungle trek to El Mirador, the oldest Mayan city in the world that has the largest Mayan ruins. For five days we walked through the jungle, along the Mayan roads and visited ancient, scared sites. As part of the package, food was cooked for us three times a day and my dietary requirements were taken of. We ate a lot of tortillas; think tortillas with pasta, tortillas with black beans, plantains and rice, tortillas with soup, tortillas with gravy, tortillas with pancakes. It was great. What an experience. If you’re looking for a real jungle experience and enjoyed the energy of Tikal, I would totally suggest going on this adventure.

After five weeks of traveling through some wonderful spots in Guatemala (this was my second time in this country), I made my way to Nicaragua for more adventures.

To be continued!

Where to Eat Vegan in Guatemala: Vegan Eats, Vegan Travel